Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
